[RAMEN] えるびす 西口店 Erubisu (from May 16, 2002)
Ramen This Week: えるびす 西口店 Erubisu
えるびす 西口店 Erubisu
So I'm not feeling too inspired lately. Too bad. My faculties have been dulled by the vagaries of transfer accounting systems and mysterious one-off HCM recruiting function charges for les demitasses styrofoammes at Taillevent Robuchon. Also, I've been investing far too much creativity in things like producing a J-Rap version of that already annoying Fish Song.
It had come time to trek to the so-called Ramen Capital. To secure safe passage without incident, I gave up all traces of my Kanto 893 (not 吐くぞ) heritage. Off came my customary gold-plated stainless steel wire-rim tinted fade sunglasses, the punchy perm, and the plaid-patterned pocketless golf trousers. I even took time to shave the wispy hairs at either corner of my grin . . . WHILE SMOKING! Ikebukuro. Nishi 3-30-2. Plus on Monday I had a little bit of a limp on the left side.
(Needless to say, I also removed all Goldman Sachs business cards and paraphernalia from my person, since I really didn't want to be caught doing anything that would reflect poorly on the firm, other than my usual work.)
The shoyu ramen is at heart a clear-colored soup, with precious philtrum-sized globules of gentle fat on the surface, one Cupid's Bow for every spoonful of broth. The overall blend -- I think pork rib, tonkotsu, and torigara -- whelms the senses nicely, with varying gruffness and season. Homemade noodles just this side of ultra-thin were fragrant and faintly roasty. In addition, the must-order egg extra was perfectly luscious. I found myself puzzled by how they infused the hard-boiled white with so much taste while the yolk was left so positively creamy, not at all sticky or adhesive on the lips. On the other hand, the meat-to-fat ratio in the charsiu is less than optimal. There was the vaguest murmuring of chaos between the charsiu and the other elements, but that soon passed over. Perhaps a meatier cut would have saved the pork.
The flavor of the whole is spiky and tinny in places. Inhale deeply while carrying some soup and noodles on your tongue, and you will sense the slightest hint of iron at the roof of your mouth. The effect is unmistakably ducky, which bears promise for the Higashi-guchi branch and its lure of an actual duck broth! But the shoyu ramen is certainly very salty. Between the two sorts of pork bones and the chicken, there's already a lot of sodium on that them there ranch; the soy sauce tare does not help the matter and is probably unneeded.
In all, this place is a winner. And I would be first in line if anyone wants to venture in search of the duck broth ramen.
えるびす 西口店 Erubisu
So I'm not feeling too inspired lately. Too bad. My faculties have been dulled by the vagaries of transfer accounting systems and mysterious one-off HCM recruiting function charges for les demitasses styrofoammes at Taillevent Robuchon. Also, I've been investing far too much creativity in things like producing a J-Rap version of that already annoying Fish Song.
It had come time to trek to the so-called Ramen Capital. To secure safe passage without incident, I gave up all traces of my Kanto 893 (not 吐くぞ) heritage. Off came my customary gold-plated stainless steel wire-rim tinted fade sunglasses, the punchy perm, and the plaid-patterned pocketless golf trousers. I even took time to shave the wispy hairs at either corner of my grin . . . WHILE SMOKING! Ikebukuro. Nishi 3-30-2. Plus on Monday I had a little bit of a limp on the left side.
(Needless to say, I also removed all Goldman Sachs business cards and paraphernalia from my person, since I really didn't want to be caught doing anything that would reflect poorly on the firm, other than my usual work.)
The shoyu ramen is at heart a clear-colored soup, with precious philtrum-sized globules of gentle fat on the surface, one Cupid's Bow for every spoonful of broth. The overall blend -- I think pork rib, tonkotsu, and torigara -- whelms the senses nicely, with varying gruffness and season. Homemade noodles just this side of ultra-thin were fragrant and faintly roasty. In addition, the must-order egg extra was perfectly luscious. I found myself puzzled by how they infused the hard-boiled white with so much taste while the yolk was left so positively creamy, not at all sticky or adhesive on the lips. On the other hand, the meat-to-fat ratio in the charsiu is less than optimal. There was the vaguest murmuring of chaos between the charsiu and the other elements, but that soon passed over. Perhaps a meatier cut would have saved the pork.
The flavor of the whole is spiky and tinny in places. Inhale deeply while carrying some soup and noodles on your tongue, and you will sense the slightest hint of iron at the roof of your mouth. The effect is unmistakably ducky, which bears promise for the Higashi-guchi branch and its lure of an actual duck broth! But the shoyu ramen is certainly very salty. Between the two sorts of pork bones and the chicken, there's already a lot of sodium on that them there ranch; the soy sauce tare does not help the matter and is probably unneeded.
In all, this place is a winner. And I would be first in line if anyone wants to venture in search of the duck broth ramen.
posted by hamu86 at 1:01 PM
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